Monday, October 1, 2007

Introduction

Dear Everyone,

Karibu! (Welcome!) I’m sorry that it has already been a month and I haven’t written a thing. I can hardly believe it myself that a month has already passed. My only justification for not writing (and this is a huge understatement), is that I’ve been busy. I’m going to try and give you an over view because things have been absolutely amazing. Some things about Kenya need an introduction before I start.
1. Matatus. Matatus are the glory that is public transportation in Kenya. First picture a van with a flat front that seats fourteen. Now picture that van without a carpeted floor and with sliding windows. The best part about matatus is they have few regulations. This means you get some pimped out matatus. They are painted bright colors, and many have pictures of rappers on the sides. Most matatus are blaring uncensored hip-hop music and the better ones have screens so you can watch music videos. Music is blaring, the bass is booming, and you’re hurtling down the road at top speeds. Matatu drivers know their vehicles like the back of their hands. They routinely come within inches of other cars and people.
Matatus are always entertaining. They cost usually 10-20 KSH (shillings) which is about 25-30 cents. Matatus drive over curbs, get in small crashes, and continue on. One my funniest moments happened when I was getting into a matatu. Expecting the usual rap I was surprised to find myself listening to Culture Club. I guess that driver was a Boy George fan. Another fun thing about matatus is the Touts. The touts are the men/women who collect your money. I wear a ring on my left middle finger and a taut asked me if it was a wedding ring (it looks nothing like a wedding ring). I said no and it led to a whole conversation about how he was looking for the ‘right one’ and ‘was I looking for the right one?’ I of course was not. I love matatus.
2. Mzungus. I am a mzungu, you are a mzungu, mzungu means foreigner or traveler. We’ve adopted mzungu to mean ‘whitey’. I love the word. In the slums the little kids point at us and yell ‘mzungu’. If someone wants to get our attention on the street they yell ‘mzungu’. The only downside is the mzungu prices we get, and the mzungu expectations.
The main mzungu expectations involve transportation. Not many foreigners take matatus. Most white people here prefer taxis. That means that whenever we pass a cab driver they always yell ‘taxi?’ One of my friends was looking for the matatu stage (certain areas each matatu is required to stop) and kept asking people around her. Every time she asked about the matatus they said ‘taxi?’ People couldn’t believe that she honestly wanted to take a matatu. Another time in city center, on three separate occasions a taxi driver said ‘taxi?’ and when we said ‘hapana’ (no) he said ‘safari?’ Three times this happened. Clearly if we didn’t want a taxi we must want a safari. I mean there’s no other reason a white person would go to Kenya right? It was too funny.
Mzungu prices are expected. So many white people and foreigners pay way more then they should that when sellers see us the price usually doubles. The best way to drive the price down is to throw in Kiswahili words. If it doesn’t lower the price at least you get the joy of seeing their shocked expression. Kenyans also look to trade. I’ve had offers for my sandals, my watch, my earings, my rings, and most often and importantly pens. I don’t know why pens are in such high demand. I mean, they have the same made in China pens here. Anyways an American pen is known to drive the price down anywhere between 20 and 200 KSH.
3. The Kenyan Attitude. The Kenyan attitude is laid back. They don’t power walk, and seem never to be in a rush. If an event is suppose to start at 7:00, anticipate it starting at 8:00-8:30. It’s hard to get use to but I think I’m starting to. Kenyans are also very out going. At markets I always need to remember not to yell out peoples names because if one person knows your name, they’ll pass it down the line then everyone knows it. I had a man in a market call me by name who I had never spoken to. It was interesting. In this same outgoing manner I’ve been complimented at the most random times.
Once I was walking down the street to my internship, in the zone and not really paying attention. I pass men in suits and work attire all the time because I walk through downtown. So here I am walking when coming in the opposite direction is a man, maybe thirty in nice pants, a button down shirt, and a tie. We’re passing each other when he comes within a foot of me and says “you’re beautiful”. WHAT?!? Who says that to someone on the streets? He didn’t even stop. Thanks? On another occasion I was talking on the phone to a man who had stolen my friend’s phone. So I was trying to ask him where he was so we could get the phone back when in the middle of the conversation he says “you have a very beautiful voice”. Again, thank you, but may I please have the phone you stole from my friend back? It’s all very funny. I haven’t been proposed to yet but two other girls have. I’ve been reassured that it’ll come in time so I’m trying not to worry. So far the best offer was 150 cows. Personally I think I’m worth at least 200.
The concept of beauty is refreshing here. The small skinny girls are finding themselves ignored in favor of the girls that are a little bigger. Amen. That said I don’t think I could lose weight here if I wanted to. Everyone expects you to go to Africa and come back emaciated. Let me kill that idea now. I walk almost everywhere but the three staples of my diet are rice, chapatti, and ugali: starch, starch, and starch. I’m going to be the girl that everyone will raise they’re eyebrows and say ‘she went to Africa? You sure?’ I embrace my starch diet. The food here is delicious.
I haven’t even begun to talk about what I’ve been doing. I guess I’ll get there in time. I’m sure I’ve left out a million things anyways. It’s harder then I thought summing up life here. I hope everything has thus far been explained alright. Please e-mail me with any questions, comments, or concerns. :o) Love you all.



The one, the only, your favorite,


- Liz

6 comments:

Alex said...

Aww yay! Liz party! Now I can stalk you AND Jill.

Jillian said...

Alex recruited me to stalk you too.

Feel free to stalk me back.



PS: I say your worth 350 cows, 50 goats... I'd even throw in a sheep or two.

Tuesday said...

You're having trouble getting used to things starting late?! I don't believe that for a second.
My cousin found her pens to be quite popular in Namibia as well.
Also, if someone offers you goats instead of cows, they're a keeper. Especially if he's wearing a cool vest or his name's habeeb.

Claudia Wallis said...

Liz,
What a fabulous, colorful depiction of life as a mzungu in Kenya! Just loved reading it. Just love your sense of humor.
Keep it coming.
You ever lovin' aunt,
Claudia

Kenton W. Davis said...

Liz, It was Great hearing from you! I've been wondering how you are doing. Thanks for the great description of your experiences in Kenya. Write when you have time. Lots of love from Ellicott City, MD. xxoo:)

becca.aman said...

Mi amor. I know I'm reading this very late...but I just came across it on your facebook profile. Anyway-you're funny, and should think about writing professionally. You made Kenya sound amazing.

I'm glad you're getting the random street comments. Any matutu drivers ask you out yet. Don;t worry its coming. I especially liked the robber who said you had a nice voice.

Keep having fun. And I'll talk to you soon.