I just got back from Lamu yesterday. It was amazing. We took a plane there which made everyone extremely happy. We’d been on Mombassa Road before and no one was very eager to repeat the experience. Driving on Mombassa Road is about the same as having someone grab your shoulders and shake you as hard as they can . . . for about eight hours. So we got in our little 40 seater and took off. When we got to the airport we hopped on a boat to take us to Lamu. Lamu is an island off the southern coast of Kenya.
Lamu looks nothing like the rest of Kenya. It looks like it should be in the Mediterranean or the Middle East. All the buildings had white-washed walls with open windows and beautifully carved doors. There are only two cars on Lamu so it’s peaceful and quiet. All transportation is done by dhows and donkeys. One of the best parts was that we could walk around at night. In Nairobi it’s not safe to walk around after dark so we’re forced to take taxis everywhere. In Lamu we could walk down the alleyways or on the beach at night without worrying about anything.
It was also nice to finally have some free time. Last week was mid-term week at USIU (the United States International University) and I had two papers and a test. The trip to Lamu was technically an “educational” trip but we had plenty of time to walk around and just hang out. The educational part involved seeing the ruins of a village, visiting a local school, and visiting a beach to swim in the Indian Ocean. I swam in the Indian Ocean!!
Needless to say I’m going to try to get back to Lamu. The seafood, the people, and the island were all amazing. Another cool thing was that people in Lamu didn’t immediately speak English with us. We met some boys that were about our age and even after we had been in Lamu for two days they were still speaking Kiswahili. The best part was that we could understand almost all of what they said or at least get the jist of it. It was so much fun.
Now I’m back in Nairobi. It is kind of nice to be back
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Let’s talk about postcards.
Let the record state that it has, and continues to be my intention to send everyone who wants one a postcard. Things have gotten a little delayed though. My first problem is finding postcards to send. Not just postcards, but ones that can actually be sent to you all with out me shaking my head. Most post cards here are not suitable to be mailed. This is why. Postcards in Nairobi generally have one of these three pictures. First, a bare breasted Masai women. Surprisingly enough, you don’t come across, well, anyone that looks like this in Nairobi. I understand it is a stereotype for Africa but I have a personal motto of not sending postcards of things I haven’t seen. The second, and quite possibly the most hilarious postcards you'll find are of animals mounting each other. This makes up about 75% of all postcards. I don’t quite get how it would ever be appropriate to send those postcards. They must do well though for there to be so many. That said, if anyone is dying to see nature at its most natural let me know and I’ll shoot one your way. Until then, I haven’t seen it, so neither will you. The last postcards, which for reasons unknown to myself I almost take offense to, are the ‘Jambo Kenya!’ and ‘Hakuna Matata!’ postcards. No one really ever says ‘jambo’ or ‘hakuna matata’ unless to yell it at a mzungu. Since I know you don’t want the tourist Kenya but the real one I’ll hold off for some better postcards. Know though that it is in the works.
Let the record state that it has, and continues to be my intention to send everyone who wants one a postcard. Things have gotten a little delayed though. My first problem is finding postcards to send. Not just postcards, but ones that can actually be sent to you all with out me shaking my head. Most post cards here are not suitable to be mailed. This is why. Postcards in Nairobi generally have one of these three pictures. First, a bare breasted Masai women. Surprisingly enough, you don’t come across, well, anyone that looks like this in Nairobi. I understand it is a stereotype for Africa but I have a personal motto of not sending postcards of things I haven’t seen. The second, and quite possibly the most hilarious postcards you'll find are of animals mounting each other. This makes up about 75% of all postcards. I don’t quite get how it would ever be appropriate to send those postcards. They must do well though for there to be so many. That said, if anyone is dying to see nature at its most natural let me know and I’ll shoot one your way. Until then, I haven’t seen it, so neither will you. The last postcards, which for reasons unknown to myself I almost take offense to, are the ‘Jambo Kenya!’ and ‘Hakuna Matata!’ postcards. No one really ever says ‘jambo’ or ‘hakuna matata’ unless to yell it at a mzungu. Since I know you don’t want the tourist Kenya but the real one I’ll hold off for some better postcards. Know though that it is in the works.
Monday, October 1, 2007
Introduction
Dear Everyone,
Karibu! (Welcome!) I’m sorry that it has already been a month and I haven’t written a thing. I can hardly believe it myself that a month has already passed. My only justification for not writing (and this is a huge understatement), is that I’ve been busy. I’m going to try and give you an over view because things have been absolutely amazing. Some things about Kenya need an introduction before I start.
1. Matatus. Matatus are the glory that is public transportation in Kenya. First picture a van with a flat front that seats fourteen. Now picture that van without a carpeted floor and with sliding windows. The best part about matatus is they have few regulations. This means you get some pimped out matatus. They are painted bright colors, and many have pictures of rappers on the sides. Most matatus are blaring uncensored hip-hop music and the better ones have screens so you can watch music videos. Music is blaring, the bass is booming, and you’re hurtling down the road at top speeds. Matatu drivers know their vehicles like the back of their hands. They routinely come within inches of other cars and people.
Matatus are always entertaining. They cost usually 10-20 KSH (shillings) which is about 25-30 cents. Matatus drive over curbs, get in small crashes, and continue on. One my funniest moments happened when I was getting into a matatu. Expecting the usual rap I was surprised to find myself listening to Culture Club. I guess that driver was a Boy George fan. Another fun thing about matatus is the Touts. The touts are the men/women who collect your money. I wear a ring on my left middle finger and a taut asked me if it was a wedding ring (it looks nothing like a wedding ring). I said no and it led to a whole conversation about how he was looking for the ‘right one’ and ‘was I looking for the right one?’ I of course was not. I love matatus.
2. Mzungus. I am a mzungu, you are a mzungu, mzungu means foreigner or traveler. We’ve adopted mzungu to mean ‘whitey’. I love the word. In the slums the little kids point at us and yell ‘mzungu’. If someone wants to get our attention on the street they yell ‘mzungu’. The only downside is the mzungu prices we get, and the mzungu expectations.
The main mzungu expectations involve transportation. Not many foreigners take matatus. Most white people here prefer taxis. That means that whenever we pass a cab driver they always yell ‘taxi?’ One of my friends was looking for the matatu stage (certain areas each matatu is required to stop) and kept asking people around her. Every time she asked about the matatus they said ‘taxi?’ People couldn’t believe that she honestly wanted to take a matatu. Another time in city center, on three separate occasions a taxi driver said ‘taxi?’ and when we said ‘hapana’ (no) he said ‘safari?’ Three times this happened. Clearly if we didn’t want a taxi we must want a safari. I mean there’s no other reason a white person would go to Kenya right? It was too funny.
Mzungu prices are expected. So many white people and foreigners pay way more then they should that when sellers see us the price usually doubles. The best way to drive the price down is to throw in Kiswahili words. If it doesn’t lower the price at least you get the joy of seeing their shocked expression. Kenyans also look to trade. I’ve had offers for my sandals, my watch, my earings, my rings, and most often and importantly pens. I don’t know why pens are in such high demand. I mean, they have the same made in China pens here. Anyways an American pen is known to drive the price down anywhere between 20 and 200 KSH.
3. The Kenyan Attitude. The Kenyan attitude is laid back. They don’t power walk, and seem never to be in a rush. If an event is suppose to start at 7:00, anticipate it starting at 8:00-8:30. It’s hard to get use to but I think I’m starting to. Kenyans are also very out going. At markets I always need to remember not to yell out peoples names because if one person knows your name, they’ll pass it down the line then everyone knows it. I had a man in a market call me by name who I had never spoken to. It was interesting. In this same outgoing manner I’ve been complimented at the most random times.
Once I was walking down the street to my internship, in the zone and not really paying attention. I pass men in suits and work attire all the time because I walk through downtown. So here I am walking when coming in the opposite direction is a man, maybe thirty in nice pants, a button down shirt, and a tie. We’re passing each other when he comes within a foot of me and says “you’re beautiful”. WHAT?!? Who says that to someone on the streets? He didn’t even stop. Thanks? On another occasion I was talking on the phone to a man who had stolen my friend’s phone. So I was trying to ask him where he was so we could get the phone back when in the middle of the conversation he says “you have a very beautiful voice”. Again, thank you, but may I please have the phone you stole from my friend back? It’s all very funny. I haven’t been proposed to yet but two other girls have. I’ve been reassured that it’ll come in time so I’m trying not to worry. So far the best offer was 150 cows. Personally I think I’m worth at least 200.
The concept of beauty is refreshing here. The small skinny girls are finding themselves ignored in favor of the girls that are a little bigger. Amen. That said I don’t think I could lose weight here if I wanted to. Everyone expects you to go to Africa and come back emaciated. Let me kill that idea now. I walk almost everywhere but the three staples of my diet are rice, chapatti, and ugali: starch, starch, and starch. I’m going to be the girl that everyone will raise they’re eyebrows and say ‘she went to Africa? You sure?’ I embrace my starch diet. The food here is delicious.
I haven’t even begun to talk about what I’ve been doing. I guess I’ll get there in time. I’m sure I’ve left out a million things anyways. It’s harder then I thought summing up life here. I hope everything has thus far been explained alright. Please e-mail me with any questions, comments, or concerns. :o) Love you all.
The one, the only, your favorite,
- Liz
Karibu! (Welcome!) I’m sorry that it has already been a month and I haven’t written a thing. I can hardly believe it myself that a month has already passed. My only justification for not writing (and this is a huge understatement), is that I’ve been busy. I’m going to try and give you an over view because things have been absolutely amazing. Some things about Kenya need an introduction before I start.
1. Matatus. Matatus are the glory that is public transportation in Kenya. First picture a van with a flat front that seats fourteen. Now picture that van without a carpeted floor and with sliding windows. The best part about matatus is they have few regulations. This means you get some pimped out matatus. They are painted bright colors, and many have pictures of rappers on the sides. Most matatus are blaring uncensored hip-hop music and the better ones have screens so you can watch music videos. Music is blaring, the bass is booming, and you’re hurtling down the road at top speeds. Matatu drivers know their vehicles like the back of their hands. They routinely come within inches of other cars and people.
Matatus are always entertaining. They cost usually 10-20 KSH (shillings) which is about 25-30 cents. Matatus drive over curbs, get in small crashes, and continue on. One my funniest moments happened when I was getting into a matatu. Expecting the usual rap I was surprised to find myself listening to Culture Club. I guess that driver was a Boy George fan. Another fun thing about matatus is the Touts. The touts are the men/women who collect your money. I wear a ring on my left middle finger and a taut asked me if it was a wedding ring (it looks nothing like a wedding ring). I said no and it led to a whole conversation about how he was looking for the ‘right one’ and ‘was I looking for the right one?’ I of course was not. I love matatus.
2. Mzungus. I am a mzungu, you are a mzungu, mzungu means foreigner or traveler. We’ve adopted mzungu to mean ‘whitey’. I love the word. In the slums the little kids point at us and yell ‘mzungu’. If someone wants to get our attention on the street they yell ‘mzungu’. The only downside is the mzungu prices we get, and the mzungu expectations.
The main mzungu expectations involve transportation. Not many foreigners take matatus. Most white people here prefer taxis. That means that whenever we pass a cab driver they always yell ‘taxi?’ One of my friends was looking for the matatu stage (certain areas each matatu is required to stop) and kept asking people around her. Every time she asked about the matatus they said ‘taxi?’ People couldn’t believe that she honestly wanted to take a matatu. Another time in city center, on three separate occasions a taxi driver said ‘taxi?’ and when we said ‘hapana’ (no) he said ‘safari?’ Three times this happened. Clearly if we didn’t want a taxi we must want a safari. I mean there’s no other reason a white person would go to Kenya right? It was too funny.
Mzungu prices are expected. So many white people and foreigners pay way more then they should that when sellers see us the price usually doubles. The best way to drive the price down is to throw in Kiswahili words. If it doesn’t lower the price at least you get the joy of seeing their shocked expression. Kenyans also look to trade. I’ve had offers for my sandals, my watch, my earings, my rings, and most often and importantly pens. I don’t know why pens are in such high demand. I mean, they have the same made in China pens here. Anyways an American pen is known to drive the price down anywhere between 20 and 200 KSH.
3. The Kenyan Attitude. The Kenyan attitude is laid back. They don’t power walk, and seem never to be in a rush. If an event is suppose to start at 7:00, anticipate it starting at 8:00-8:30. It’s hard to get use to but I think I’m starting to. Kenyans are also very out going. At markets I always need to remember not to yell out peoples names because if one person knows your name, they’ll pass it down the line then everyone knows it. I had a man in a market call me by name who I had never spoken to. It was interesting. In this same outgoing manner I’ve been complimented at the most random times.
Once I was walking down the street to my internship, in the zone and not really paying attention. I pass men in suits and work attire all the time because I walk through downtown. So here I am walking when coming in the opposite direction is a man, maybe thirty in nice pants, a button down shirt, and a tie. We’re passing each other when he comes within a foot of me and says “you’re beautiful”. WHAT?!? Who says that to someone on the streets? He didn’t even stop. Thanks? On another occasion I was talking on the phone to a man who had stolen my friend’s phone. So I was trying to ask him where he was so we could get the phone back when in the middle of the conversation he says “you have a very beautiful voice”. Again, thank you, but may I please have the phone you stole from my friend back? It’s all very funny. I haven’t been proposed to yet but two other girls have. I’ve been reassured that it’ll come in time so I’m trying not to worry. So far the best offer was 150 cows. Personally I think I’m worth at least 200.
The concept of beauty is refreshing here. The small skinny girls are finding themselves ignored in favor of the girls that are a little bigger. Amen. That said I don’t think I could lose weight here if I wanted to. Everyone expects you to go to Africa and come back emaciated. Let me kill that idea now. I walk almost everywhere but the three staples of my diet are rice, chapatti, and ugali: starch, starch, and starch. I’m going to be the girl that everyone will raise they’re eyebrows and say ‘she went to Africa? You sure?’ I embrace my starch diet. The food here is delicious.
I haven’t even begun to talk about what I’ve been doing. I guess I’ll get there in time. I’m sure I’ve left out a million things anyways. It’s harder then I thought summing up life here. I hope everything has thus far been explained alright. Please e-mail me with any questions, comments, or concerns. :o) Love you all.
The one, the only, your favorite,
- Liz
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
